Black Mantle with Bonnaz Trim, Lappets, and Inner Pocket
c. 1885-1895
Historical Collection #: 0000.04a.0091
Company: Unknown
Country: USA
Materials: Serge wool outer (twill woven), Italian cloth lining (satin face twill weave cotton), linen Holland canvas, linen stabilizing canvas, course linen collar canvas, soutache braid (likely wool), fringe (wool), metal hooks and loops, linen thread
Techniques: Machine stitched, lining is hand cleaned, trim has been machined on
Ownership: Unknown
In researching garments of this time, the shape of this garment is commonly found in opera mantles. Opera mantles however, tend to be made in more elaborate trimmings and rich colors, notable examples are rust and gold. While some of the style of this garment can be attributed to its more subdued American manufacture, it does not seem to be on par with other opera mantles worn in America at the time either. I will instead propose that this mantle is a piece of Victorian mourning wear and used as outerwear instead. In the Victorian Period (1837-1901), mourning wear was strictly regulated and these customs were observed in North America as well. During the first stage of mourning one must wear all black, unadorned clothing. This stage typically lasted for a year and a day. After the initial mourning period, simple trims and adornments could be added to clothing. This period often lasted between 4-6 months. The final period of mourning which was “half mourning” lasted 4-6 months as well, but began to introduce more elaborate trims and even dark purples, rusts, and other deep colors into the clothing.
Notable features of this garment are its tailored shape and long lappets. It was typical to have a roomier fit to mantles in the shoulder caps. This helped to accommodate the larger sleeves as they became more fashionable. Older women tended to wear the more tailored mantles as they retained a more “old fashioned” style to their sleeves. This mantle most likely did not belong to a child due to its lengthy lappets. Lappets on mantles tended to be desirable for two reasons, one: to contrast with the skirt fabric, or two: to hide a pregnant belly.
